Smocking-pattern



H. s. SADTLER.

' smocxme PATTERN. APPLICATION FILED MAY]; 19,5-

Patented May 10,1921.

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HELENA s. SADTLER, or SPRINGFIELD TOWNSHIP, MONTGOMERY COUNTY, PENN-SYLVANIA.

SMOCKING-PATTERN.

Application filed May 1,

To all Q0 Ito met may concern I Be it known that I, HELENA S. SAD'rLnn,a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Springfield township,Montgomery county, State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Smocking-Patterns, of which the following is aspecification.

My invention relates to improvements in smoclring patterns in whichsuitable markings or indicia are provided which may be employed toindicate the points at which the stitches should be taken in a flatfabric so that without any preliminary folding or plaiting the smockingdesign may be directly formed, the material being simultaneously foldedand plaited.

In the art of smocking, as faras I am aware, it heretofore has been thepractice in the production of smocking patterns to arrange dots upon asuitable sheet of material, as paper, in rectangular relation to eachother, the dots beingarranged in vertical and horizontal rowssubstantially at right angles to each other and the dots in each rowbeing in alinement. In the use of such smoching patterns these dots havebeen transferred in any suitable or known manner to the material to besmocked after which the material is folded on the lines of the verticaldots by means of drawing threads passed through the dots in horizontaldirection after which the 'smocking figures are worked upon the foldedor pl'aited fabric by inserting the stitches at suitable points upon thecrests or apices of the folds, such points being determined by the eyewithout the aid of indicating dots or other indicia. As a result it hasbeen impossible to produce a finished design of smoclring work havingthat exactness of alinement, shape and configuration which is desirablefor the production of the best effects.

lhe purpose-of my invention is to overcome these objections and toprovide a pattern having dots or other indicating means situated thereonin such positions that when corresponding positions have been indicatedupon the material which is to be smocked the points at which the needleis to be inserted and at which the folds are to be formed are indicatedthereon rendering unnecessary the preliminary step of folding thematerial which heretofore has been nec- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 10, 1921.

1915. Serial No. 25,131.

essary before the smocking stitches could be formed upon the material.

In the carrying out of my invention patterns having differentarrangements of dots or other indicating means thereon may be made, suchdots or other indicating means being so arranged that when an article issmockedby forming the stitches in accordance with the positionsindicated by the dots or other indicating means upon the patterndifferent designs will be produced conforming to the plan of the designand producingthe eff ct which was intended to be produced by thearrangement of thedots or other indicating means upon the pattern.

In order that my invention may be more easily and fully understoodreference should behad to the accompanying drawing in wnich I haveillustrated a convenient embodiment of my invention.

in the said drawing Figure l is a plan view of a portion of a patternsheet having one design of dots thereon; and

Fig. 2 is a view showing a section of flat fabric, a portion of whichhas been stitched or smocked in accordance with the pattern shown inFig. 1. Y

' Referring to the drawings, 1 designates a sheet of suitable material,such as paper, having thereon a plurality of dots arranged with respectto each other as shown.- It will be understood that these dots may bearranged otherwise with respect to each other so that the design of thestitched or smocked material may be varied as desired.

In Fig. l of the drawings 1 have shown the dots in lines 2, 3, i and 5in horizontal alinement while the dots in lines 6,7 and 8 a e out ofhorizontal alinement.

In the pattern as illustrated the dots thereon are formed oftransferable material so that they may be transfered from the pattern onto the flat material, such as fabric, to serve as a guide to the personwho does the work of smocking upon such material. A r

The dots upon the pattern sheet 1 are arranged in a plurality of rowssubstantially at right angles to the rows 3, 4 and -5 and those in eachvertical or right angular row are in substantial alinement.

Referring to the row 6 it will be observed that the dot at is situatedin a horizontal line below the dot Z) and also below the dot c and inalinement with the dot cl. Referring to the row 7 it will be observedthat there are a series of dots in opposing relation to the dots a b 0(Z and that the dot e is in a horizontal line above the dot and alsoabove the dot g and is in alinement with the dot h. This grouping andarrangement are repeated successively throughout the lines 6 and 7. Inthe construction shown the horizontal distance between the dots a and3),. b and c, 0 and (Z, and between 6 and f, j" and g, and g and h isapproximately onefourth of an inch while the vertical distance up ordown between the dots a and Z) and c and f is substantially one eighthof an inch. The same relation exists between the dots c and d and g andit. While the horizontal distance between the dots may be varied withinreasonable limits the step up or step down should in all cases besubstantially one-eighth of an inch. Instead of sewing a single step upor a single step down as illustrated there may be a plurality of stepsup or down. In such case the horizontal distance between the successivedots should be uniform and may be, as already indicated, eitherone-fourth of an inch or a distance greater or less within reasonablelimits. The step up or step down, however between successive dots shouldnot vary substantially from one-eighth of an inch. The distance aparthorizontally of the dots in the rows 2, 3, i and 5 is the same as thehorizontal distance between the dots in the rows (5 7 and 8.

V .lVhen the dots upon the pattern have been transferred to a fabricthey indicate to the seamstress the points at which the stitches shouldbe taken. In actual practice, the needle should be inserted from theunder side of the fabric through a dot at what may be termed thebeginning of the pattern at the left hand side, the thread beingretained in the material by means of a knot formed in the end thereof inthe usual manner. Thereafter the needle should be inserted downwardlythrough the material at a point a short distance to the right of eachdot and then upwardly through the material and through the adjacent dot.A slight pull upon the thread away from and substantially at rightangles to the loop just formed will-cause the folding and puckering ofthe material at the points desired and when the stitches have beenformed at the several dots outlining the pattern the result will be thatthe material is properly folded and a design formed by the threadconforming with and corresponding to the design of the pattern employed.Although I have stated above that the needle should be inserted at apoint a short distance to the right of each of the dots it is to beunderstood thatthe same result may be obtained by inserting the needledownwardly through each dot and causing it to emerge upwardly throughthe material at a short distance to the left of each dot. The essentialfact or consideration is that the dots indicate to the camstress oroperative where the stitches are to be made and also enable the stitchesto be made in uniform relation with respect to each other so that thesniocking design sought to be produced will inevitably result if thepattern be followed. 1

It will be understood that instead of dots other indicating means may beemployed so that the design of the pattern may be placed upon the sheetof material to be smocked. It will also be understood that the patterndesign may be printed directly upon or otherwise placed directly uponthe sheet of fabric upon which the smoclring design is to be worked.

In Fig. 2, l0 designates a flat piece of suitable fabric including aportion which has been worked or smocked in accordance with the patterndesign illustrated in Fig. l. The rows of stitches 11 have been formedby following the linesv of dots 2, 3 and i shown in Fig. 1, the loops ofthe stitches being alternately thrown above and below the horizontallines of said dots. As the thread is drawn through the material it isgiven a pull away from and transversely of the loop just formed therebyof suilicient force to fold the material asindicated so that a designsuch as is illustrated is produced. The rows of stitches l2 and 13 areformed by stitching the material in accordance with the dots shown inline 6 and 7 on the pattern sheet 1. It will be observed that thestitches formed in accordance with the rows of dots 6 and 7 constitutediamondshaped figures, the upper and lower apices of the said figuresbeing formed by inserting the needle through the material in the mannerindicated above and by drawing the portions of material at the dots band 0 and f and 9 toward each other, as indicated.

In sewing from a dot a to a dot b the needle threadis held below thehorizontal line of the stitches while in going from a dot b to a dot 0and from the latter to a dot (Z the needle thread is held above thehorizontal line of the stitches; that is, whether in line 6 or line 7 intaking a step up the thread is held below the horizontal line ofstitches while in taking a step down the thread is held above thehorizontal line of stitches.

The row of stitches 15 shown in Fig. 2 is spiral and is formed on theline of dots 5.

By forming the stitches to conform to the dots in the row 8 an angularline of stitching 16 is formed as indicated in Fig. 2 of the drawing.

The appearance of the design may be varied by using thread of differentcolors and it may be varied also by changing the stitch as may be seenby comparing the appearance ofthe stitches 11 and 15. It Will also beunderstood that the pattern design may be Varied as desired.

1 claim 2-- 1. A smocking pattern comprising a sheet oi suitablematerial having thereon indicatmeans consisting of separate elements andthe said pattern comprising rows of said indicating means Whichindicating means in the said rows is out of alinement, the relation ofthe separate elements of the said indicating means in each rowdetermining the design oi the respective rows of stitches correspondingto the rows of indicating means.

2. A. smocking pattern comprising a sheet oi? suitable material havingthereon a plurality of horizontally and Vertically arranged rows ofindicating means consisting of separate elements the said Vertical rowsof indicating means being in alinement and the indicating means of someof the horizontal rows being out of alinement, the relation of theseparate elements of the thereof.

said indicating means in each row determining the design of the rows ofstitches corresponding to the said rows of indicating means.

3. A smocking pattern comprising a sheet of suitable material comprisingrows of horizontally arranged dots the said dots in said rows being outof alinement with each other each row of dots indicating the line of acomplete and continuous row of stitches.

i. A sheet of material having thereon means to indicate the positions atwhich stitches are to be taken to produce a smocking design, saidindicating means comprising horizontally arranged rows in which portionsof said indicating means therein are out of alinement with otherportions In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I havehereunto signed my name this 30th day of April, A. D. 1915.

HELENA S. SADTLEB.

In the presence of- CYRUS N. ANDERSON, FLORENCE Dna oon.

